Have you been thinking about adding a fire feature to your landscape design? Now is the ideal time to start planning.

Magnolia Landscape & Design Co.

An outdoor fireplace or fire pit is a natural gathering place for family and friends – and an enhancement to any landscape plan. When it is carefully integrated with other hardscape materials (brick, natural stone, tile…) and the home’s architectural style it also adds property value. So a lot rides on good planning, design and construction. Magnolia Landscape and Design has a lot of expertise in this area. Here are some of the key factors to get the discussion started.

Understand Local Ordinances and Safety Concerns
It is important to know local zoning regulations that might impact your plans for an outdoor fireplace or fire pit. There may be ordinances that restrict wood burning, or require a specific set back from property lines or from other structures, or dictate chimney height.

Fireplace or Fire Pit?
Determining whether a fireplace or fire pit is best suited to your lifestyle and landscaping needs is an important decision. Are you looking a campfire environment where large groups can share s’mores and ghost stories? Or is creating a more intimate, out-door living room/conversation nook more your style? If your landscape needs an inviting focal point, wind block, or a privacy shield, then a substantial fireplace structure is an excellent choice. But if you like being open to the elements and don’t want to block a beautiful view, then a fire pit is your best option. The Landscaping Network (Calimesa, California) came up with the following graphic to help compare/contrast the two choices.

Size/Scale and Placement
The first consideration is to scale your fireplace or fire pit design so it is appropriate for the size of your yard and home. For ambiance – the smaller the better. For large-scale entertaining you will want lots of seating and mingling space. Fire pits need 360° of space around them – that is large enough to accommodate the style of patio seating you plan to use. Fireplaces are usually enjoyed from just one side. They can be free-standing on the edge of a patio or located against a retaining wall or fence.

Magnolia Landscape & Design Co.

In general, wood burning fireplaces are larger than gas or other alternative fuel fireplaces because of chimney height requirements that ensure safety. Also their fireboxes have to be large enough to accommodate logs. Incorporating an outdoor kitchen, barbeque and/or wood fired pizza oven means even more structural space needs to be allowed.

You will also want to learn about the prevailing winds on your property – to minimize the danger from blown ash and the nuisance of smoke being constantly in your eyes. It can be especially tricky to get outdoor fireplaces to draw properly. Even average wind can produce a considerable downdraft. It is important to calculate the size of the flue carefully, install a “smoke shelf”, and make sure the chimney is tall enough.

Seating

The size and design of the patio space for a fireplace or fire pit is often dependent on the type of seating you plan to use. Patio furniture that can be easily moved around—for instance, Adirondack chairs— are ideal for surrounding a fire pit. Built in benches or even camp-inspired logs arrangements can also be attractive and accommodate a lot of people, especially when accessorized with colorful outdoor pillows and seat cushions.

Fireplace patios lend themselves well to conversation sets of furniture consisting of a combination of couches, comfortable armchairs, and a coffee table or large ottoman. Additional seating can also be built into the hearth design.

Magnolia Landscape & Design Co.

Alternative Fuels
Wood is no longer the only fuel option for outdoor fire features. In fact, some local community ordinances may not allow wood burning at all. It might be possible to hook your fire feature into your home’s natural gas line, or fire it by using other clean-burning fuel sources, even alcohol. Check with your landscape designer to determine the best fuel for your needs.

Extras
Design plans may call for added features like a decorative mantel, a hearth that is extended for additional seating, wood storage with a large enough capacity to fuel an evening’s fire, or a complete outdoor kitchen. Built in planters and adjacent landscaping will add garden interest and beauty. A lighting plan is often desirable, too—as long as it doesn’t compete with or overwhelm the firelight but highlights the structure’s architectural features.

Magnolia Landscape & Design Co.

Fire Up Your Design Plan
Sitting by the fire and extending a fun-filled day with family and friends into the evening…sharing stories and memories while enjoying the warmth and glow of firelight…keeping an attentive eye on the sky for falling stars…watching the kids write their names in the air with the glowing tip of a marshmallow stick…these are good times to be cherished—and obvious benefits of having an outdoor fireplace or fire pit.

But the logistics of actually designing and building the right fire feature can be daunting without the advice of an experienced designer and builder, even for the most dedicated do-it-yourself homeowner. Don’t hesitate to call Tom for a design and build consultation.

This early spring weather has us thinking about getting an early start to the gardening season. But it is important to remember that this is still Minnesota and a lot can happen weather-wise between now and Memorial Day.

Early Spring Do’s:

• Rake lightly – being careful not to pull out young grass
• Remove mulch – but keep it handy in case cold, or heaven forbid, snow returns
• Water
• Prune fruit trees
• Plant some cold-crop vegetables like spinach, leaf lettuce and peas

Early Spring Don’ts:

• Fertilize – though stock up if you find it at bargain prices
• Prune oak tree – oak wilt season has already started
• Plant annuals or mid or late harvest vegetables

So what is the best way to redirect our awaking gardening energy?

BUY PLANTS AND SEEDS

Now’s the time to get serious about perusing those gardening catalogs that have been accumulating since January and make early orders for plants and seeds. Order early to get your favorite plant varieties. If you wait until after May 15 you might be out of luck for this season. It’s never as much fun growing second-best substitutes—and wondering what might have been. Plants you purchase can be nurtured indoors until planting weather truly arrives, especially if you have lots of natural light from south or east facing windows, or ideally, a good grow light system.

START GROWING SEEDS INDOORS
Starting seeds indoors is a great way to get an early start on gardening. Find your landscape plan and try to figure out where you might want to fill in gaps with annuals. Many herbs and vegetable plants are also quite showy. They look and do well in borders mixed in among the perennials and shrubs. Some of the easiest flowers to start from seed include lobelia, impatiens, petunias, rudbeckia (black-eyed Susan), verbena, marigold, sweet alyssum, and aster. You might also consider adding some of the ornamental varieties of pepper, basil, kale or cabbage for interest. Your research will turn up lots more options…

The first year you start seeds indoors you will need to think about stocking up on some basic supplies and equipment. For instance: Seeds, containers, seed starting soil-less mix, plastic covering, plant labels, and grow lights. Then it is just a matter of putting your good gardening sense to work.

Seeds
There are several advantages to working with seeds: You have access to a wider selection of plant varieties; it saves the expense of purchasing nursery-started plants; and it gives you the opportunity to grow plants that require a longer growing season than what we naturally have here in the northland. But mostly —it’s fun! Seeds germinate and start emerging almost overnight. The whole family will enjoy the process if not the work.

Seed prices can vary quite a bit. Newer hybrids, rare or unusual plants, and certified organic seeds can get relatively expensive. It’s not always necessary to purchase from name brand companies though. Since the percentage of germination and seed purity is governed by law, an “off brand” seed should perform the same as a name brand one – if they are the exact same variety. You can store seeds from a year or so if they are kept in an air-tight container in a cool place, like in a refrigerator. But in general, it is best to have fresh seeds. So plan to purchase only as many as you intend to plant – regardless of the cost-saving bulk rate.

Containers
The best containers have divided cells that keep the tender young roots of each plant separate. If the roots get entangled the plant may be damaged in the transplanting process later. Some people use egg cartons (they are biodegradable), yogurt cups or other common household containers. You can also purchase “cell flats” (large sheets of individual cells) from garden centers. Biodegradable peat pots are also nice as they can be planted directly into the ground later, easing the transplant process. Whatever containers you choose make sure they have holes in the bottom for water drainage.

Seed Starting Mix
Purchase a sterile, weed-free potting mix that holds water well. These mixes contain the right amounts vermiculite and peat to nurture the germinating seeds and tiny seedlings. Fill your containers with the mix and water it before you start to plant. You might have repeat this several times – until the containers are almost full.

Sow the seeds individually – pressing them in to a depth of about 4 times the seed’s width. If you are using older seeds you might want to plant 2-3 seeds per cell. If they all germinate and grow use a scissors to cut the weakest shoots off at ground level.

Covering
Until the seedlings are well established it is nice to cover the containers with plastic to keep moisture from escaping and to retain heat – and still let light filter in. Plastic wrap from the hardware store is fine. Some cell flats are even sold with solid plastic domes.

Plant Labels
Be sure to label your plant containers so you will know what everything is when it starts to grow. You also might want to include the date sown and track the growing processes of various types of seeds for future reference.

Grow Lights
Natural light is not always the best option in Minnesota because window area temperatures can swing from too cold at night to too warm during sunlit afternoons. Artificial fluorescent lighting is the most reliable for the 12-16 hours per day that germinating seeds and seedlings need. Hang lights from chains 2-4” above the plants. Use a timer, so plants also have enough dark times to develop properly.

Water and Fertilizer
Use a spray bottle to keep the potting mix moist for germinating seeds, or add water to the tray itself and let the potting mix absorb the moisture upward. Once the seedlings start to have true leaves it is okay to feed them a weak water-soluble fertilizer, mixed ? strength.

Transplanting and Hardening Off
If plants outgrow their cell packs, transplant them into larger containers. This is a good time to repurpose those plastic pots that you often buy young nursery plants in. It’s normal to lose some leaves in the process, but be especially careful not to damage a plant’s growing point.

About two weeks before you want to transplant your plants into the soil outdoors start acclimating them gradually to their new environment. At first, just take them outside for few hours during the day. Set them in the shade for a few days, protected from the wind, then move them into light sun for several more days. Transplant into your beds on a cloudy day – or late in the afternoon.

Then head for the hammock and think about how satisfying the business of gardening can be!

Works referred to include:
Starting Seeds Indoors, University of Minnesota
Seed Starting Essentials, Better Homes and Gardens
Give Plants a Head Start, Minneapolis Star Tribune
Outdoor Chores Do’s and Don’ts, Minneapolis Star Tribune

Magnolia Plant Pick for March

Fiesta Forsythia
Forsythia x intermedia “Fiesta”

Also known as “Golden Bells” this plant really shines in the early spring when it is covered in stunning gold bell-shaped flowers that are ideal for cutting. In summer it is a compact, mounded border shrub with yellow-variegated emerald green foliage. In late fall and winter the brick red stems add interest to the landscape. At maturity it will be about 3’ tall, with a 4’ spread with a 30 year lifespan. It is deer resistant.

Plant this low maintenance shrub in full sun. It is adaptable to both dry and moist conditions, and is tolerant of environmental salt and urban pollution, thriving even in inner city environments. Prune after flowering.

Starting to long for, dream about and plan for next summer’s yard and garden spaces?

The best way to scratch the gardening itch in mid-winter is to start planning for spring. Now is the perfect time to review the landscape layout and last year’s garden journal and develop plans for the 2012 season. If you don’t already have a gardening journal, then why not start one now?

Unless you have a photographic memory, a journal is an indispensable tool for garden and landscape planning and on-going management. The trick is to find a journal style that is manageable for you – so you can sustain it over time. A journal can be anything from a shoebox stuffed with plant tags and photos that you keep next to your spades and rakes in the garden shed, to a sophisticated software package that guides you through the process of recording every last detail about your plants, their environment and care.

An online search for “garden journal” will yield hundreds of hits. Explore the software options, and the online garden organizers. They can provide useful templates and may even offer a ready-made gardening community to communicate with and share tips and information.

Garden centers and bookshops carry any number of bound journals – with inspirational sayings, drawings and photos. One of them might be just your style. For instance, The New Three-Year Garden Journal by Joanne Seale Lawson.

Our favorite though is the DIY Garden Journal – that grows and evolves with you and your needs.

http://ravengrrl.blogspot.com/2007/04/garden-journal-nows-great-time-to-start.html

Here are some of the basic office supplies you will need to get started:

• Simple three ring binder
• Sheet protectors and pocket pages – for photographs, plant tags, business cards, garden and landscape inspiration articles from newspapers and magazines, soil analysis reports, plant care information
• Graph paper for sketching landscape and garden layouts
• Writing paper
• Dividers to separate one  growing season from another
• Calendar pages to record and schedule gardening and landscape care activities
• Optional journal template pages. There are many template options available online for free or low-cost download. For instance, the Northern Gardening website has a FREE TEMPLATE developed by Marie Dean of Homestead Harvest that is worth investigating.

Information you might want to track throughout the growing season includes:

• Plant/tree/shrub inventory
• Plant/tree/shrub location graph
• Plant/tree/shrub wish list
• Plant/tree/shrub care information
• Month by month list of yard and garden tasks
• Significant dates: Planting, bloom/harvest, transplant/division
• Weather: First and last frost, rainfall amounts
• Notes regarding the success or failure of particular plants or plant varieties.
• Disease and pest problems; solutions that did/didn’t work
• Costs

Rain Gauge: http://www.windandweather.com/

Photography Journal

Digital photography has made us all photographers. Develop the habit of photographing your gardens and landscape at regular intervals and you will have an enjoyable and useful visual journal for future planning – and perhaps some spectacular wall art to bring the beauty of your garden indoors for year-round enjoyment.

Remember to share your journal with your landscape designer so your wishes, knowledge and skills can be incorporated into any new plans for your outdoor spaces. And take heart – we’ll be outside amid the glorious greenery again soon.

Oh the Places MAGNOLIA Will Go!

Come to these events for inspiration and information. Be sure to stop by our booth to say “Hello”. We look forward to seeing you.

March 10 – Saturday, 10 AM to 3 PM
2012 Home, Landscape and Lifestyle Expo
Sponsor: SouthWest Metro Chamber of Commerce.
Free admission
Location: Chanhassen High School, 2200 County Road 18, Chanhassen, MN
More info: Click HERE

March 17 – Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM
Home Improvement & Design Expo
Cost: Adults $6; under 17 admitted FREE with adult. No additional charge for seminars and demonstrations.
Location: Canterbury Park, Shakopee, MN
More info: Click HERE

March 24  – Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM
The Home Improvement and Design Expo
Cost: Adults $6; under 17 admitted FREE with adult. No additional charge for seminars and demonstrations.
Location: Maple Grove Community Center, 12951 Weaver Lake Road Maple Grove, MN
More info: Click HERE

April 14 – Saturday, 9 AM to 1 PM
Yard and Garden Expo
Sponsor: City of Plymouth
Cost: $5
Location: Plymouth Creek Center, 14800 34th Ave No, Plymouth, MN
More info: Click HERE

Magnolia Plant Pick for February

Profusion Flowering Crab (Malus ‘Profusion‘)

If you have a yard space looking for a stand-alone showpiece, Tom highly recommends the Profusion Crab. It has year round visual appeal. In the spring dark red flower buds appear before the leaves emerge. The flowers are a beautiful shade of red, nestled among bronze-tipped dark green foliage. In fall the fruit is deep red and the pointy leaves turn yellow. The bark is nothing special, but the tree’s winter’s silhouette is attractive. At maturity the rounded plant stands about 20’ tall, with a 25’ spread and low canopy.

Plant Profusion Crab in full sun and well drained soil. Prune late in winter after the threat of extreme low temperatures has passed. This hardy tree persists through whatever a Minnesota winters throws at it, plus it is highly resistant to diseases, pests and urban pollutants. Count on having it for at least 50 years. All this – and it also attracts birds to the yard.

Know Your Zone

When creating or revising your 2012 landscaping plan be sure to check out the new Plant Hardiness Zone Map recently released by The United States Department of Agriculture. The new map might not be the zone envy cure that many Minnesotans growers and landscapers long for – but most of the Twin Cities metro area saw at least a half zone increase (from 4a to 4b) and one South Minneapolis/Richfield pocket, called a micro-climate, is even classified as a 5. Other parts of the state saw as much as a whole zone shift.

We have to remember it is still Minnesota, and we are susceptible to all kinds of unusual weather patterns from one year to the next, but this new map should at least encourage some fun plant experimentation in 2012. Maybe there is a Japanese maple in your future?

This is the first change to the map since 1990 – and reflects a general warming trend across Minnesota for the past 30 years. The map is based on average annual minimum winter temperatures, and divided into 10-degree F zones. It is the standard way to predict which plants are most likely to grow and thrive in a particular area. Click here for interactive version of the map available at the USDA website, allowing you to search by zip code and zoom in on your own neighborhood.

Our Strange Winter

It’s been a strange winter in Minnesota this year. Conditions – like the fall drought, extreme temperature fluctuations, and light snow cover – are posing some unique gardening concerns. Julie Weisenhorn, master gardener with the University of Minnesota Extension School was recently on the Mid-Morning Show on Minnesota Public Radio to address these issues. You can hear the complete January 19 broadcast here.

In the meantime, here are some tidbits from the program:

Fall Drought and Severe Cold Temperatures: Minnesota started winter this year with a precipitation deficit. Unless we watered our evergreens, shrubs and plants well in the fall the drought may mean that their roots are not hydrated well enough. This plus the lack of an insulating snow cover may result in some winter die back.

Combined with the periods of severe cold, evergreens may be especially susceptible to winter burn. Some of the early spring blooming shrubs (i.e. magnolias, azaleas) may also see some winter damage on their buds and foliage. However, when spring arrives it is best to take a wait and see approach. Foliage damage does not necessarily mean permanent damage to the branch. It may still push out new growth and make a nice recovery in the spring.

Warm Winter: This is a welcome oxymoron to Minnesotans – but it is causing some alarm for gardeners who are seeing their bulbs and plants putting up green shoots much too early. Higher temperatures can kick plants out of their usual winter dormancy. The truth is no one knows if this is a temporary aberration or a death knell. Buds may die back and some foliage will display with black edges. However, the bulb, rhizome, or plant may recover in the spring and produce new buds and eventually its beloved blooms – and if not this season then perhaps the next. Hope springs eternal!

Light Snow Cover and Mulching: The lack of snow this year means that we do not have our usual frost insulator for the ground. Some of our more fragile plants may not survive this kind of winter.

Mulching though is a good remedy – and it is not too late consider doing some mulching now, especially for the more tender perennials. The purpose of mulching is to slowly put plants into dormancy in the fall and then slowly bring them out of dormancy in the spring. It may be too late given the bitter cold we had earlier – but mulching now may still help with that critical emergent time – keeping plants from putting out shoots too early or offering protection to new growth against sudden, last minute cold snaps. If you still have bags of leaves from last fall that makes great mulch. Some nurseries may still have straw available.

Amazing mulching fact: Mark Seeley, University of Minnesota climatologist, noted that in their testing unprotected winter soil temperatures dropped as much as 41°.  But in mulched areas the soil temperature dropped only 8°. Mulching works!

In the spring be cautious about removing mulch. As plants starts to grow, gently pull away mulch from the base of the plant but mound it up nearby in case you want to recover for the inevitable Minnesota cold snap, winter’s last hurrah.

Go Native: Next year consider planting more Minnesota native plants, trees and shrubs as they have already adapted to our odd weather patterns. But bear in mind the new zone map – our warming climate is bringing new native plants into our area and some are not as well suited as they once were. If you have questions, ask Tom.

Heliopsis helianthoides, oxeye, is an easy to grow, showy native plant of the Minnesota prairies. About 4’tall, its bright yellow flowers are similar to tiny sunflowers. (University of Minnesota)

Magnolia Plant Pick for January

Horstmann’s Silberlocke’ Korean fir (Abies koreana)

Not your usual evergreen, this versatile conifer is know for providing year round interest. The dark green needles curve up, revealing bright silvery-white underside. An abundance of large showy cones stand upright along the branches. A slow grower, within 10 years it can grow to 10’ tall, 6’ wide – 20’ tall at maturity. Use this Korean to create a dramatic presence in the landscape.

No need to worry about zones with this selection – it is approved for both zones 4 and 5. It grows best in acidic soil with full sun. It needs regular, weekly watering or more often in extreme heat.

Need a last minute holiday gift idea for a gardener in your life? Or just planning to settle in for a good January read by the fire? Here are some great garden reads Magnolia has chosen for your enjoyment. They cover a range of design topics including landscape design, English cottage gardens, gardening up instead of out for small spaces, and low maintenance gardening practices for older gardeners. There’s even something for the literary minder gardener.

What Tom is Reading

The Garden Book
Phaidon Press (January 2000)

This book will take you on a visual garden journey through time and space to some of the most beautiful and famous gardens of the world, from Ancient Persia and China through classical Europe and into contemporary garden design. The A-Z format presents 500 gardens each represented with a full-page photo and brief text noting its historical and design significance and providing some background information on the designers and their patrons. This is a great book to dream over – and mine for inspiration.

Garden Design Magazine

If you are a gardening and landscape design enthusiast then this is great magazine to check out. Its focus is modern design concepts rather than practical how-to gardening tips. It is published 6 times per year with a bonus issue published once a year. This is the type of magazine that you will savor for its eye-candy garden photography, and then archive for future reference because the garden descriptors include plant lists and design plans.

Other Notable Books

Great Gardens of America
Tim Richardson
(Francis Lincoln, 2009)

This is another survey book. It looks at 25 notable American gardens from Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello to the Donnell Garden in Sonoma, California with the “most beautiful swimming pool in the world”. The British author, Tim Richardson, identifies the American design principle as being about opening outward toward the vastness of the land and the surrounding wilderness. He contrasts this to the classical European design principle of creating enclosures. It is an intriguing idea-based book – and Richardson is an engaging writer. The photography by Andrea Jones is stunning.

Home Outside: Creating the Landscape You Love
Julie Moir Messervy
(Taunton Press, 2009)

This book was called “One of the year’s best gardening books” of 2010 by the Boston Globe, and awarded the 2010 Gold Award by The Garden Writers Association. Messervy writes for the homeowner, outlining a 6-step landscape design process. She is realistic in the way she writes about such everyday concerns as a tight budget, limited time or neighborhood association rules. Readers are sure to find a wealth of ideas and landscaping inspirations.

Gardening for a Lifetime: How to Garden Wiser as You Grow Older
Sydney Eddison
(Timber Press, 2011)

The physical demands of a garden can begin to wear on the aging gardener. Sydney Eddison knows all about that from her own life experience. In this well written book she shares her own story as well as tips for low maintenance gardening that continues to make the results as rewarding as ever.  For instance, she deals quite extensively with plant selections. She suggests replacing fussy plants, such as delphiniums, with plants that need less constant tending like sedums or daylilies.

Fifty Plants That Changed The Course Of History
Bill Laws
(Firefly, September 2011)

Since time immemorial plants used as fuel, medicine or even weapons have impacted human lives and civilizations. This book is full of interesting tidbits of information and historical note about the usual suspects (tea, rice, wheat, etc.) as well as the unusual (agave, pineapple, hemp, eucalyptus). An enjoyable read, with beautiful botanical illustrations and photography.

Gathering: Memoir of a Seed Saver
Diane Ott Whealy
(Seed Savers Exchange, July 6, 2011)

The author and her husband, Kent Whealy, co-founded Seed Savers Exchange in 1975, a non-profit dedicated to preserving and distributing heirloom seeds. The project began with seeds that Ott Whealy saved from her paternal grandparents. The organization now has over 13,000 members. She also founded the Flower and Herb Exchange where members offer over 2000 heirloom flowers and herbs for exchange each year. More than a story of preservation, this book is a well written memoir of farming in several states, raising five children and following a passion for gardening. A good book to sink into.

English Cottage Gardening: For American Gardeners
Margaret Hensel
(W. W. Norton & Company; Revised Edition, July 2000)

As a photographer and contributor to Horticulture Magazine, Hensel has brought the art of the English Cottage Garden to the page – and to America. The book features 10 gardens, 8 in England and 2 in the United States – all beautifully photographed and presented. The book contains design information, source lists and specific plant information. But more than an invaluable resource, it is the ultimate armchair garden tour. If you weren’t an Anglophile before reading it you will be afterwards.

Minnesota Gardens: An Illustrated History
Susan Davis Price
(Afton Historical Society Press, April 2000)

A past winner of Minnesota Book Award for Best Minnesota Book, this chronicle of Minnesota gardening takes the reader on a garden tour from pioneer and Victorian times to the present. Using her skills as a research librarian Price went to a variety of original sources (newspaper articles, diaries, interviews and photo archives) to compile her comprehensive and compelling book. Our state is home to hundreds of plant varieties, a flourishing seed industry, and gardens worthy of note. Minnesota gardeners will be beaming with pride in their distinguished legacy.

Garden Up! Smart Vertical Gardening for Small and Large Spaces
Susan Morrison and Rebecca Sweet
(Cool Springs Press, March 2011)

When garden space is limited the only direction to go is up! This book proves how beautifully and imaginatively it can be done. Each chapter examines an existing garden and explores how/why it chose to go vertical in order to overcome a particular design challenge. Trellises, arbors, and living walls are not just trendy design elements. They are here to stay. This book offers a great start in vertical gardening.

Writing The Garden: A Literary Conversation Across Two Centuries
Elizabeth Barlow Rogers
(David R. Godine, October 2011)

Literary-minded gardeners will savor Rogers’ discussions and exploration of the English world’s best garden writers. From the first chapter on “Women in the Garden” (Jane Loudon, Frances Garnet Wolseley, and Gertrude Jekyll) to the last chapter, “Philosophers in the Garden” (Henry David Thoreau, Michael Pollan, and Allen Lacy) the reader will see Rogers’ views on how these great minds influenced the ways we design, plant and enjoy our gardens today. This book also opens the door to endless reading possibilities for months and years to come.

If you have a favorite gardening book let us know about it. In the meantime…

Happy Reading and Happy Holidays from your friends at Magnolia Landscaping and Design!

Magnolia Plant Pick of the Month

Arctic Fire Dogwood
(Cornus sericea ‘Farrow’)

This fast growing, compact, hardy shrub will attract birds to your yard. It does best in full sun to partial shade and tolerates a wide variety of growing conditions. At maturity it will grow to 4’, with a 4’ spread. It has clusters of creamy white flowers in late spring, and dark green foliage throughout the season. It produces white berries in late summer. In the fall its pointy leaves turn burgundy. In winter its scarlet branches are showy – especially against the snow.

When gardeners can’t garden they love to plan. Will the irises need to be divided next summer? Should the day lily be moved to a sunnier location? Would a tree look nice where the kids’ sandbox used to be? But how often do we wonder, “How will my garden look throughout the winter months?”

It’s an important question for the northern gardener. For one–fourth of our year, from the first flurries of November to the wet, heavy snows of March, we are winter gardeners.

So now that the summer garden has been “put to bed” with adequate mulch, the tools are cleaned and neatly stored away, and the first snowfall of the season is blanketing the yard, it is time assess and plan to enhance the winter garden.

The garden elements to choose for the winter landscape are those that add unexpected pops of color, offer a variety of sizes and textures, make attractive snow catchers or silhouette beautifully against a snowy backdrop or against the amazing quality of light in our winter skies – especially during those majestic moments just after sunrise or sunset. It’s also important to consider perspective. The winter garden is often observed from indoors looking out so when you are planting new trees and shrubs pay close attention to how your view of them is framed by windows and doors. Another consideration is how to best utilize garden elements so they create a welcoming entry into your home.

There are many ways to add texture, color and form to the landscape with planters, trees, evergreens, shrubs, lingering summer plants and architectural features.

Planters

Repurpose your planters, if they are frost resistant, with winter arrangements to create a landscape focal point or a welcoming home entrance. Start with fresh greens and then scour your yard (or garden center) for natural materials to add color, interest and texture. Some of nature’s embellishments to consider are red dogwood branches, clusters of red sumac, winterberries, pinecones, hydrangea heads, milkweed pods, rose hips, leathery magnolia leaves and fern fronds. Ornamental grasses add height. You might even add oranges, lemons or pomegranates.

Magnolia Landscaping and Design Co. created the arrangements shown here.

If you want to create your own arrangements, Veronica Sliva of HGTV, offers the following tips:

Proportion is important: At its tallest point the arrangement should be at least two thirds the height of the container. Too short and it will look squat. Too tall and it will look top heavy. As for shape, the arrangement should be narrower at the top and wide at the bottom.

Next, continue the outline using evergreens, making sure that they drape nicely over the edge of the container. After that, work in layers, filling in the shape by inserting different types of evergreens in different lengths, and making sure that they are securely anchored well into the soil. The idea is to make a very full arrangement. Repeat items for continuity. Think in groups of three, five or seven. Once your arrangement is well formed, add the embellishments.

Trees

Leaf-bare trees are kings in the winter landscape, especially those with arching branches that catch the snow and create intriguing silhouettes against a gray-blue sky. Many varieties of oak trees are native and abundant in Minnesota. With their commanding size and gnarled branches they dominant the skies and cast intriguing shadows on the snow covered ground.

Younger oaks that retain their rusty-red leaves look striking in the landscape and they add a wonderful rustling sound as an added benefit.

Other good tree choices listed by the University of Minnesota include:

* Weeping willows with their umbrellas of yellow weeping stems
* Silver maples, red maples and Freeman maples that retain their flower buds giving their branches a beaded look.
* River birch with their cinnamon and ivory curling bark
* Crabapples cultivars that keep their red, orange and gold fruit through the winter.

Better Homes and Garden: http://www.bhg.com/gardening/design/test-garden-secrets/winter-landscape-tips-from-the-test-garden/#page=5

Evergreens

Evergreens are perhaps the most familiar way to add color and mass to the winter landscape – and also the most perplexing. There are hundreds of choices, and it is not always clear when buying a young plant just how tall or filled out the adult version will be. First decide on the size and shape evergreen you want for your spaces then consult with a professional to determine the right choice for your plan and growing conditions. But certainly consider Dwarf Globe Blue Spruce (Picea pungens ‘Glauca Globosa’) – Magnolia’s Pick of the Month.

University of Minnesota

Magnolia Pick of the Month: Dwarf Globe Blue Spruce (Picea pungens ‘Glauca Globosa’)

This evergreen is dense, neatly compact and rounded. It is well suited as a foundation planting, in a shrub border, or as an accent plant. It has stiff, prickly, light blue, ?” needles that require little pruning. Rarely produces cones. Deer resistant. Some salt tolerant.

Height: 3-5′
Spread: 3-6′
Habit/Form: Rounded
Growth Rate: Slow
Zone: 2-8?

Cultural Requirements: Best in well-drained soil in full sun. Prefers slightly-acidic pH soil containing some organic matter, but will tolerate a wide range of soils, if well-drained. Established plants can tolerate short periods of drought. Little, if any, pruning required. Some salt tolerant. Zone 4: Plant in spring to prevent winter heaving; plant in full sun; apply extra mulch after first hard frost; avoid contact with salt; avoid exposure to harsh winter winds.

Shrubs

Deciduous shrubs that lose their leaves create eye-catching silhouettes in winter light. Lilacs not only branch out beautifully, but they have lovely green flower buds, like little green pearls. The Dogwood, with its characteristic red branches is an excellent option for bright color.

Photo: Lindsay Bond Totten

Hydrangea crowns with their papery brown flowerets are attractive all winter and pair well with evergreens.

There are also many shrubs that hold their berries through the winter – unless the birds get to them first. The University of Minnesota recommends:

* Highbush cranberry (Viburnum trilobum). It produces clusters of red fruit that persist all winter. They are slightly acidic, so birds tend to ignore them until spring forments them.
* Staghorn sumac and smooth sumac
* Barberries
* Winterberry
* Bittersweet

Lingering Summer Plants

Many summer plants and their seedpods can be left on the stem to add interest to the winter garden.

* Coneflowers
* Black-eyed Susans
* Sedums
* Martagon lilies
* Balloon flower
* Fern fronds
* Rosehips
* Ornamental grasses

Better Homes and Gardens: http://www.bhg.com/gardening/design/test-garden-secrets/winter-landscape-tips-from-the-test-garden/#page=3

Architectural Features

The same architectural features and structures that enhance the summer garden can become beautiful snow catchers and focal points in the winter garden.  Arbors, trellises, gazebos, garden benches, rocks and retaining walls all help to define spaces and create focal points. Consider additional enhancements like lighting or ice candles or even creative ice sculptures.

Ice Sculptures: Jennifer Hedberg - Photo: Todd Buchanan - Midwest Home Magazine

Better Homes and Gardens: http://www.bhg.com/gardening/design/styles/the-many-moods-of-garden-benches/#page=18

Recommended for further reading:

The Garden in Winter: Plant for Beauty and Interest in the Quiet Season, Suzy Bales, Rodale Books, 2007.

Wonders of the Winter Landscape: Shrubs and Trees to Brighten the Cold Weather Garden, Vincent A. Simeone, Ball Publishing, 2005.

The Garden in Winter, Rosemary Verey, Timber Press, Incorporated,1995. (zoned for US gardeners)

The University of Minnesota, Extension Service

Magnolia Plant Pick:

Autumn Brilliance Serviceberry (Amelanchier x grandiflora)

Photo courtesy of Northscaping.com

This open multi-stemmed deciduous tree retains its rounded shape throughout its 40-year lifetime, growing as tall as 20 feet, but maintaining a low canopy (4 feet from the ground.) Excellent for planting under power lines. It is also a good choice for attracting birds, but not deer. Adorned in spring with showy white flowers, followed by blue berries, and dark green foliage, and decked in fall with brick-red leaves this tree is a three-season stunner.

Photo courtesy of Northscaping.com

Autumn Brilliance Serviceberry is generally low maintenance although it does like moist conditions so it is important to keep it well watered. It is highly tolerant of urban settings and pollution. Plant in full sun to partial shade. Prune in late winter when the threat of extremely cold temperatures is over.

BUCKTHORN BUSTING

It’s late fall. If you are still seeing green leaves in your backyard or nearby woods you are probably looking at buckthorn – a nonnative, invasive species of shrubs or small trees.

The Problem With Buckthorn

According to the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources, there are many good reasons to actively remove buckthorn:

• It outcompetes native plants for nutrients, light and moisture
• Restricts or eliminates wildlife habitat and food sources
• Contributes to erosion by shading out other plants that grow on the forest floor
• Hosts other pests such as crown rust fungus (which attacks oak trees) and soybean aphids.
• It also creates a dense sub-canopy in wooded areas making them difficult to walk through – and boring to look at. The thorns are no fun either!

The state of Minnesota has designated buckthorn a restricted, noxious weed. It is illegal to import, sell, or transport it. So even if does make a nice hedge (which is how many of us came to have it in our yards) do not buy or plant it.

The plant is a prolific reproducer. According to John Moriarty, “The ground under mature buckthorn trees can have about 75 seeds per square foot. (In comparison, corn is planted at less than five seeds per square foot.)” Birds, especially cedar waxwings and robins, eat the berries and further scatter the seeds.

Identifying Buckthorn

Fall is the best time to identify buckthorn because its leaves stay green almost longer than anything else. During the summer buckthorns are often confused with other small trees, like wild cherry or some cherry trees. The blue-black berries can stay on the trees through March.Two species of the plant are common in Minnesota:

Common buckthorn (Rhamnus cathartica) was a popular hedge planting brought here from Europe. The leaves are egg-shaped, dark and glossy. It grows to be a tall shrub or a small tree up to 25 feet tall.

Glossy buckthorn (Frangula alnus), also from Euprope, has two forms. One tall and narrow, growing up to 18 feet high. The other spreads up to 10 feet and has narrow leaves giving it a fern-like texture. This plant aggressively invades wetlands including fragile arctic bogs, fens and sedge meadows.

Buckthorn Removal

It is best to control the problem early and often when only a few shrubs or trees are in evidence and before a major infestation can take over an area. The Department of Agriculture, Department of Natural Resources, Minneapolis Park Board, and Hennepin Parks in recent years have launched major control efforts on their properties. But it is a difficult and wide-spread problem involving private as well as public lands – and so far there are no economically cost-effective solutions.

Removal is a labor intensive process involving several steps:

1. Cut down trees greater than 3 inches in diameter with a handsaw or chainsaw.
2. Within 2 hours (because the stumps resprout with incredible vigor) either dig out the stumps or treat them with an herbicide. The two proven chemicals are glyphosate (Roundup) and triciopyr (Brush-B-Gon).
3. Pull up small trees (less than 1 inch) by hand and remove seedlings with a hoe.

Spread the Word

Tell your neighbors about buckthorn – or better yet, organize your neighbors for a buckthorn bust. Local Lake Associations and other environmental groups, may already have a buckthorn removal day set aside. Check with your local community leaders.

Friends of Diamond Lake, Lake Association, Minneapolis

Alternative Plantings

Finally, replace buckthorn with environmentally friendly native trees and shrubs. Some suggestions include:

• Red Cedar
• Northern white cedar
• Speckled alder
• Dogwood: especially, Grey dogwood (Cornus racemosa), Pagoda dogwood (Cornus alternifolia)
• American hazelnut (Corylus Americana)
• Viburnums: especially, High-bush cranberry (Viburnum trilobum), Nannyberry (Viburnum lentago)
• Chokecherry (Prunus virginlana)
• Black chokecherry (Aronia melanocarpa)
• Serviceberry or Juneberry (Amelanchier laevis)

Thank you to the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources for providing this information and more on their website.

LATE FALL GARDENING TIPS

Tree and Shrubs

September and October have been very dry, so watering your trees and shrubs throughout the fall, especially those planted within the last five years, will go a long way toward ensuring their survival over the winter – and providing year-round health. They need 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week. Replenish mulch that may have decayed. According to Deb Brown, small shrubs benefit from mulching to a depth of 3 inches. The threat of a harsh winter and foraging animals makes it advisable to wrap the trunks of young, thin-barked trees, like fruit trees, with plastic tree protectors or hardware cloth. (Just remember to unwrap them in the spring at the first sign of a thaw.)

Final Clean-Up

Clean up the lawn and garden to prevent weed and disease concerns in the spring. Remember to bag up diseased plant materials for removal. Do not compost them in your home compost. Remove any overripe fruits from the garden that might attract insects or animals.

Magnolia Plant Pick:

serenityinthegarden.com

Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium)

Little Bluestem is a great native grass for the garden! A clump-forming grass with slim blue-green leaves, the foliage turns a red-orange in the fall. It’s very easy-to-grow and looks great in massed plantings or mixed with other native grasses and wildflowers. It’s drought tolerant and is easy to grown in full sun.

Fall Lawn Tips

redrockslawn.com

According to the master gardeners at the University of Minnesota Extension fall is one of the best times of the year for lawn renovation and reseeding. Here are some of their tips:

Aerating and dethatching. 

safelawns.org

Fall is a great time to aerate and dethatch your lawn because it can take some abuse and recover easily. Regular dethatching forces buds to grow near the base of the grass stems, preventing the grass plants from being dead underneath and only green on top. Thatching frees new grass shoots to grow in thick and lush.

Seeding

gardeninfozone.com

Since the soil is warm from the summer heat, it’s a good time to seed your lawn. According the University of Minnesota Extension, grass seed germinates and establishes more quickly, increasing the chances of winter survival. In addition, at this time of year there’s no competition from annual weeds.

Fertilizing

lawncareottowa.com

After seeding, fertilizer will give the seed an extra boost and help the lawn survive through the fall. Be sure to water the seeds thoroughly through the fall!

Fall Planning for Spring Beauty

bhg.com

Sure, it’s hard right now to think ahead to spring, but after surviving another Minnesota winter, there’s nothing more beautiful than seeing spring’s beautiful blooms! Fall is the time to get into your garden and plant some bulbs. Here are some tips to ensure beautiful blooms:

High-quality bulbs

bhg.com

Look for bulbs that plum and firm and avoid those that are soft or mushy. Also, the bigger the bulb, the more likely they’ll bloom.

Pick the right location

bhg.com

Most bulbs do the best in full sun and in borders or beds with good drainage.

Timing is everything

bhg.com

According to bhg.com, spring-blooming bulbs, like tulips and daffodils, should be planted in September or October when the soil temperatures have cooled. Summer-blooming flowers, like dahlia and gladiolus, are best planted in the spring after the danger of frost has passed.

Plant them deep enough – and up

bhg.com

A good rule of thumb is to dig a hole two to three times deeper than the bulb. If you have 3-inch-tall bulb, dig a hole 6 to 9 inches deep. Also, be sure to place them pointy side up. If unsure, look for where the roots come out – that end goes down.

Don’t cut back too soon

bhg.com

After the flowers bloom, remove the flower head,keep the soil evenly moist and let the foliage die back.  Don’t cut back the leaves until they have completely turned brown and pull away. This will store up energy for the next season’s bloom.

Magnolia Plant of the Week: Desdemona Ligularia

cottage-gardens.net

Desdemona is a striking perennial! In the spring new leaves are a dark red and then fade to greenish-bronze on top and remain purple on the backside. Taller stems appear midsummer along with golden yellow, daisy-like flowers.

Garden Inspiration

If you’re looking for inspiration or ideas when planning your garden, or just want to get out and enjoy the outdoors, there’s no better way to get started than with a visit to one of the Twin Cities’ beautiful public gardens. Here are just a few of our favorites.

Minnesota Landscape Arboretum, Chaska

MN Landscape Arboretum

The University of Minnesota’s Landscape Arboretum features more than 1,000 acres of beautiful gardens, model landscapes and natural areas – from woodlands to wetlands to prairies. You can tour the Arboretum’s 12.5 miles of garden and hiking paths. It’s a great place to get inspired and has an extensive collection of Minnesota-hardy plants. It’s also a great garden resource. There are ample ways to learn through its myriad of educational opportunities, including a gardening school, camps for kids, cooking and winemaking classes, and more.

Noerenberg Memorial Gardens, Orono

Noerenberg Gardens

Located on the shores of Lake Minnetonka’s Crystal Bay, this beautiful public formal garden was bequeathed to the Three Rivers Park District in 1972 by the family of Grain Belt Brewery founder Frederick Noerenberg. In addition to its vast variety of perennials, annuals, trees, shrubs, and vines, the garden features ornamental shade trees, an extensive daylily collection and “Northern Lights” azaleas.

Lake Harriet Rose Garden and Lyndale Peace Garden, Minneapolis

Lake Harriet Rose Garden

Located on the northeast shore of Lake Harriet, the rose garden is the second oldest public rose garden in the United States, showcasing 3,000 plants in 100 different varieties. Be sure to check out the beautiful Heffelfinger Fountain on the north side of the garden.

Lyndale Peace Garden

Afterwards, head across the street and check out the Lyndale Peace Garden where you can visit the beautiful Spirit of Peace bronze sculpture and walk across the Peace Garden Bridge. According to Japanese tradition the bridge’s unique zigzag construction keeps evil spirits, who can only walk in straight lines, from following people into their gardens. Also, the bridge features granite peace stones from Hiroshima and Nagasaki, Japan, found in the rubble of the 1945 atomic bomb blast.

Como Conservatory Japanese Gardens, St Paul

Como Japanese Garden

The gorgeous Como Ordway Memorial Japanese Garden at Como Park Conservatory was a gift from the people of Nagasaki, Japan, the sister city of St. Paul, and designed by renowned Japanese landscape architect Masami Matsuda. The garden stays true to its Japanese traditions, using the elements of rock, water and plants to create a tranquil experience for visitors. Be sure to check out the tea house!

Magnolia Plant Pick of the Month: Cool Splash Bush Honeysuckle

Northscaping.com

Cool Splash Honeysuckle has become a popular garden accent in Minnesota landscapes, and it’s easy to see why — its bright, showy white-variegated dark green foliage looks great in any space and is a good choice if you want to attract butterflies, birds and hummingbirds. Landscape designers at Gertens suggest planting it next to plants that have maroon or purple leaves, such as Ninebark, Barberry, Coral Bells and sedum. It’s a versatile plant and looks great in mass planting, hedges, containers and woodland gardens.

Backyard Composting

green2go.org

Even if you’ve heard from friends or in the news about the benefits of composting, you still might be intimidated to try it yourself. But it’s easier to do than you might think, and the payback is astounding. According to the EPA, yard trimmings and food residuals together constitute 26 percent of the United State’s municipal solid waste streams. That’s a lot of waste to send to landfills. Here’s some basic information to help get you started.

What is Compost?

greennews.lizearle.com

Compost is organic material that can be used as a soil amendment or as a medium to grow plants. It’s made with material such as leaves, shredded twigs, and kitchen scraps from plants. Many gardeners call it “black gold” because it has so many benefits in the garden, from making clay soils easier to work in to improving the water capacity holding of sandy soils to helping overall plant growth and health.

Why Compost

greennews.lizearle.com

• Reduces the amount of garbage your household produces
• Reduces the amount of water and fertilizer required for your yard and garden by suppressing weeds and holding moisture in the soil
• Improves soil quality and supplies essential nutrients for plant growth

What You Can Compost

GoingGreen-athom.com

Add food and yard waste, including:
• Vegetable and fruit scraps
• Coffee ground and filters
• Tea leaves and tea bags
• Egg shells
• Nut shells
• Plant trimmings
• Grass and leaves

What Not to Compost

Do not add fats or animal products, including:
• Butter, cheese or dairy products
• Meat or bones
• Gravies or sauces
• Pet wastes

Composting Basics

Home Depot

Composting is easy. Common materials like chicken wire and bricks are all you need to begin composting. Or, you can purchase a compost bin at most hardware and garden stores. Maintenance is minimal, too — regular mixing or turning and a little water can ensure success! Here are a few tips from Hennepin County:

green.yahoo.com

• Keep your compost pile at the right moisture level. If your compost pile has a bad odor, it lacks air circulation or it may be too wet. Try turning the pile and/or adding dry material to the pile.
• If your compost pile is not heating up, it may need more nitrogen or “green” material. Add grass clippings or a nitrogen fertilizer to the pile.
• Bury kitchen scraps at least 8 inches deep in the compost pile to discourage critters.
• You can keep adding to your compost pile as it is composting. However, you may want to start a second pile if you have enough materials.
• Add a layer of straw or hay to the top of your compost pile in the winter to keep it warm.
• The best pile is made up of a variety of materials.
• The smaller the pieces of compost material, the faster the pile will decompose.

Happy composting!