Summer Planting!

July 13th, 2011

Magnolia’s June Plant Pick:   ‘Karl Foerster’ (Feather Reed Grass)

This hardy reed grass provides great contrast to a garden of low shrubs and perennials and grows well in wet and dry conditions. Named the best perennial in 2001, it looks great through every season.

 

Best Plants for Tough Sites

What are the best plants that will grow on a slope, in the shade, in clay or in a drought? Well, the smart folks at the University of Minnesota Extension Service Master Gardeners can answer those and many other questions related to your landscape. Drawing on 30 years of teaching and experience, local master gardeners released a great booklet on the best plants for 30 tough sites. They’ve put together some great tips. Here are just a few!
 
Plants for Clay Soil

Clay soil is very common throughout the state and master gardeners are often asked which plants grow best in the heavy soils. Roberta Smith, a master gardener in Carver and Scott County compiled a list from her personal experience. “I have successfully used all of these plants in my Carver County clay soil for a number of years,” she says. Her suggestions include purple coneflower, New England aster, perennial flax, red osier dogwood, lilac, daylily and black chokeberry.
 
 
Under a Black Walnut Tree

While they provide beautiful shade, black walnut trees can be difficult because they produce a toxic juglone and many plants that growing in their vicinity are either killed or struggle to live, with yellowing, wilting leaves. Master gardeners have put together a list of plants that can grow under a black walnut tree that includes pan­sies, violets, daylilies, hostas, sedum, squash, melons, beans, carrots, corn, and black raspberries can grow under black walnuts.
  
A Small Tree for the Boulevard

Carol Krajewski, a master gardener in Wright County, put together a list of small trees that are great for city landscapes because not only are they hardy, but they don’t need pruning and can be used near power lines and other utilities. Her list includes Japanese tree lilac, crabapple, amur maple, nannyberry, common witch hazel, amur maackia, and white fringe tree.

  

Long-Blooming Perennials

Long-blooming perennials are usually the prized plants in your garden! This list includes plants that are not only hardy and low-maintenance, but can bloom for eight weeks or longer. The long list includes Russian sage, sedum, phlox, purple cornflower, bleeding heart, salvia and yarrow.
  
Fragrant Shrubs

There’s nothing more wonderful than fragrant plants and shrubs! Terry Yockey, a master gardener in Goodhue County created suggestions of plants that provide fragrant and beautiful flowers! Northern Lights azaleas, Star Magnolias, sweet fern, lilac, Korean spice, and shrub roses are just a few of their suggestions.

 

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Don’t Forget! Magnolia at Art-a-Whirl, May 20-22

May 18th, 2011

New Sculpture Garden at Northrup King Building

Be sure to check out the new permanent sculpture garden we’ve been creating at the Northrup King Building next week during Art-a-Whirl. Magnolia collaborated with 3twelvestudio and others to create the garden, which features a new stone path, metal retaining wall and fountain. It’s a great space to enjoy art in the outdoors!

Be sure to stop by the Northrup King at 1500 Jackson Street, NE, May 20-22!

Magnolia’s May Plant Pick: Red Jade Crabapple


Malus ‘Red Jade’

The Red Jade Crabapple (Malus ‘Red Jade’) is a great weeping ornamental tree that has stunning clusters of pinkish-white flowers in the spring and showy red fruit in the fall. It’s grows to 10-12 feet high and also features dark green leaves throughout the season. It’s a great choice for attracting birds to your yard and is highly tolerant of urban pollution, so it will thrive in city environments.

Planning an Edible Garden


GardenCenterMagazine.com

Edible gardening has been gaining momentum over the past few years. It’s a great way to save money and can be a rewarding experience for families. Here are some tips to get you started:

Location: Sun, sun, sun!


BackyardGardeningTips.com

A good edible garden must have at least six hours of full sun each day in order for plants to mature properly. No amount of fertilizer or water can replace sunshine. In addition, unless you’re doing raised beds, pick a spot that has good drainage so water doesn’t drown your garden after a rain storm. Also, pick a spot that you’ll visit frequently so you can monitor pests and easily care for your plants.

Know Your Soil


Simon Howden

Before you start planting, have your soil tested so you know how much fertilizer or manure to apply. According to the UMN Extension, a soil test will let you know if your garden has any lime requirement, phosphorous and potassium needs and estimated nitrogen requirements. For information on soil testing, contact an extension educator or the University Soil Testing Laboratory at (612) 625-3101.

Picking the Right Plants


Gertens.com

The UMN Extension has put together a list of vegetables that grow well in Minnesota and have been tested in growing trials. Just remember that the cooler the climate the longer it will take for crops to grow to maturity. But even in Minnesota there are a plethora of plant options for ambitious gardeners!

Weeds and other Pests


MoonNurseries.com

Regularly weeding your garden will help your plants from being robbed of water, light and root space. Mulching between the rows will help control the weeds and provide you with pathways between the plants. Also, make sure to keep an eye out for pests. Catching them early will make it easier to eliminate them. Don’t use pesticides!

Vegetable Containers


bhg.com

If you don’t have space or the proper conditions for a garden – or don’t want to devote all of your free time weeding – container gardening might be the route for you. Vegetables that grow well are those in confined habit of growth, including salad greens, peppers, tomatoes, beans, cucumbers, and many herbs.

Be sure to water consistently – containers dry out quickly!

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Art-a-Whirl and Spring Plant Picks

April 22nd, 2011

Magnolia at Art-a-Whirl, May 20-22

Art-a-Whirl Directory Cover 2011

Magnolia is excited to be creating a new permanent sculpture garden at the Northrup King Building in northeast Minneapolis, a renovated warehouse that is now home to more than 190 artists. The urban garden will be feature many native plants and will be a great place to enjoy art and the outdoors. We’ll be having a grand viewing at next month’s Art-a-Whirl, the largest open studio and gallery tour in the country.

We’ll post some photos, but some of the elements include:

-Tumbled paver walkway that meanders through the space
-Outcropping stone from the North Shore
-Custom giant planters
-A giant custom metal retaining wall and seating.

It’s a great project and it’s going to be an amazing space. Be sure to stop by May 20-22!

Magnolia’s Plant Pick: Royal Star Magnolia


gvgh.com

If you’re looking for a hardy flowering small tree or bush for your landscape, consider the Royal Star Magnolia (Magnolia stellata ‘Royal Star’). Not only does it withstand our cold climate, but its beautiful star-shaped white flowers bloom early.


willisorchards.com

A multi-stemmed plant, it can spread 12 feet high and 12 feet wide. It’s also relatively low maintenance and can grow in full sun or partial shade.

Spring Planting?


flickr.com

It may be tempting to start planting annuals as soon as the temperatures rise and garden centers bring out colorful flowers. Wait until warmer temperatures remain constant and certainly after the last frost (typically after Mother’s Day). Until then, add some color to your pots with pansies!

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Spring Warm-Up

April 3rd, 2011

As we anxiously watch the snow melt and wait for signs of spring, many people are starting to notice brown spots on their lawns. What’s happening?

Deicing Salts


Bob Mugaas, UMN Extension

Early spring is when you’ll typically see the impact of deicing salts. You’ve seen it — narrow bands of dead grass alongside sidewalks and driveways. You can usually put down grass seed as soon as the soil is no longer muddy and soft. Before putting the seed down, lightly rake and loosen the soil so the seeds can take hold. There are also many prepackaged mulches that can speed up the growth process.

According to Bob Mugaas from the University of Minnesota Extension, there are also grass seed mixtures that are more salt tolerant (they’re known as Puccinellia distans). Ask your garden store for grass that is sold for boulevards or other areas that get exposed to deicing salts.

Snow mold


Bob Mugaas, UMN Extension

In addition to damage due to ice melt, you might notice circular, brown patches on your lawn. It could be snow mold – a fungus that grows and thrives in cold, moist conditions. It usually happens if heavy snow fell in the late fall before the ground was able to freeze.

According to the U of M Extension, after the area has dried, rake the area to speed recovery and stimulate growth. You don’t need to apply a fungicide – the grass should return.

When it comes to your lawn this spring, remember to be patient! It will be tempting to get the rake out as soon as the snow melts and temperatures rise. Be sure to give your lawn a chance to dry out (not soft and muddy). If you rake too soon, you might uproot healthy grass.

Get Inspired!


bhg.com

Magnolia will be at several home and garden expos throughout the Twin Cities this spring and will be landscaping the sculpture garden at this year’s Art-A-Whirl. Stop by for landscaping ideas and inspiration!

Plymouth Yard & Garden Expo, April 8-9 (link)
Plymouth Creek Center

Home Improvement & Design Expo, April 16-17 (link)
Eden Prairie Community Center

Art-A-Whirl Sculpture Garden, May 20-21 (link)
Northrup King Building, Northeast Minneapolis

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Planning a Landscaping Project

February 21st, 2011

As we wait for the snow to melt and grass to reappear around us, late winter and early spring is the perfect time to start planning a landscaping project. Many homeowners are embracing smaller lawns – or no lawn at all – and replacing them with functional patio spaces and drought-tolerant and easy-to-maintain perennials and shrubs.

Photo: Magnolia Landscaping and Design

Not sure where to start? The University of Minnesota Extension and Gertens Garden Center provide some good tips to consider before starting your landscaping project.

Height and Width. Are you trying to landscape a small urban backyard or a large suburban yard? Can your space accommodate a six-foot hydrangea or a 50-foot tree? Always make sure to consider the height and width the plant will reach when mature, otherwise you’ll run into problems in the future.

Photo: Magnolia Landscape & Design

Texture. By incorporating various textures in a space – rough and smooth leaves, darks against lighter shades, flowers with grasses, you’ll create contrasts and provide seasonal interests. Gertens suggests thinking bold and subdued, like Purple Smokebush and Russian Sage, or smooth and rough, like Cut Leaf Sumac and Pine.

Photo: Magnolia Landscape & Design

Seasonal Interest. You don’t want your landscape to be spectacular only during the warm months. Consider what you want it to look like throughout the year – spring and summer flowers, fall color, winter berries, etc.

Photo: Magnolia Landscape & Design

Function. How will your space be used? Do you enjoy outdoor entertaining? According to Gertens, it’s important to determine if you’ll need to improve drainage, retain a slope, or create some screening. Identify your needs for the garden and create spaces that have a purpose.

Photo: Magnolia Landscape & Design

Unity. Carry similar plants, colors, textures and themes throughout your garden. You can unify separate spaces through repetition. Mass planting instead of trying one of everything will help your garden flow from one space to the next.

Drought Tolerance. Drought-tolerant plants can survive long periods of drought because they store water internally or have extensive root systems. Native plants are usually more drought tolerant.

Purple cornflowers are native to Minnesota (ehow.com)

Full Sun or Shade Tolerance. Track patterns of sun and shade in your yard so you can select plants that are appropriate for your light conditions. Golds and whites brighten up dark areas and strong colors stand out in sunny areas.

Photo: Magnolia Landscaping & Design

Soil. Is your soil sandy or clay? Dry or moist? Your soil should be your guide to what plants will survive in your yard. There are a number of private testing labs in the state or you can use the University of Minnesota Soil Testing Lab. Sample bags and forms are available from many County Extension Offices.

Photo: University of Minnesota

Your Style. Finally, do you like cottage flowers, prairie grasses or formal hedges? Do you want low-maintenance native plants or formal ornamentals? Have fun showing off your personality and style in your landscape!

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Landscaping Trends

January 20th, 2011

The growing eco and sustainability movement continues to grow in landscaping. According to Landscape Management, homeowners are moving to water-wise landscapes, and an “anything goes” mentality. Some landscaping trends include:

Less Lawn, More Plants

More lawns are being replaced by perennials and shrubs. Drought-tolerant plans not only add curb appeal and are eco-friendly, they also significantly cut down on maintenance.


bhg.com

Being “Green”

In addition to having less lawn and more native plants, start composting and install a rain barrel. You’ll be surprised how easy it is — and the payback is huge!

themissiah, via flickr.com

Edible Gardening

Over the past few years, there’s been a huge interest in growing vegetables, fruits and herbs. We’ve seen the economic, environmental and health benefits of growing our own food — even the White House has gotten on board.

UMN Extension

More Native Plants

Plants that are native to Minnesota continue to be popular and it’s easy to see why: they are low maintenance, tolerant to drought, and we know that they grow well in our area!

MN Landscape Arboretum

Mixing it Up

As interest in gardening has grown, homeowners have become more confident and will take chances, mixing ornamental plants with edibles, etc.

bhg.com

Landscaping for Wellness – and Well-Being

According to the 2009 Garden Trends Research report, more than one-third of Americans said their  main reason for gardening was better mental health, nutrition or fitness. But they also know that a well-designed landscape increases curb appeal and adds to their property value.

Big Mind Zen Center, via flickr.com

Thinking About Spring Landscaping? Plan Now!

With the freezing temperatures and the immense snow fall we’ve gotten this winter, it might be hard to think about landscaping – or even imagine when we’ll see green grass. But winter is a great time to start thinking ahead and putting together a landscape plan.

Get ahead of the competition. Most people don’t think about landscaping until spring, and when temperatures start rising, landscaping madness kicks in and schedules fill up.

Enjoy your landscaping. By scheduling early, you’ll be able to enjoy your new landscaping the entire summer!

More time. Planning early allows you more time to think about exactly what you want, as well as more time to review and revise plans. Not only will it be a more pleasant experience, it’s also beneficial when you’re determining your budget.

Beat summer heat. Hot summer temperatures can be stressful on new plants and trees. Planting in the spring allows roots to take hold in the soil.

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Winter Ice

December 10th, 2010
(photo: Minnesota Public Radio)

The recent snowfall and freezing temperatures are forcing us to think about the best methods for melting ice on sidewalks and driveways, but do deicing chemicals damage concrete? Here are some tips to keep in mind this winter:

  • Damage to concrete from ice melt chemicals is not caused by the actual chemicals, but by creating more freeze thaw cycles.  Properly installed concrete will resist pitting, flaking, etc. It’s also important to shovel slush on walkways before it refreezes.
  • We recommend using of Magnesium Chloride.  It works until -20 degrees, reducing the number of freeze/thaw cycles.  It also does the least amount of damage to plants.
  • You can put mag chloride on pavers (most of the pavers Magnolia installs are made from concrete).  You run the same risk of pitting as on regular concrete, so remember to use the chemical at the recommended quantities and avoid using if there are plants around the area.
  • Keep in mind that using chemicals on pavers can cause an efflorescence (white haze), which you
    will notice in the spring.  We don’t recommend using chemicals on pavers, but if you do, be sure to seal them.
  • Sanding is another good choice. While it won’t remove the ice, but will provide more traction. Many municipalities offer free sand for residents. Check your city’s web site for details.

Protect Your Plants

When putting deicing salt on walkways and driveways, keep in mind that they can injure plants. To prevent salt damage, use salt-tolerant species near deicing areas. Burlap barriers can also provide protection to some plants at risk of being sprayed by salt by passing cars. Here are some salt-tolerant plants.

Perennials:
Karl Foerster Grass
Little Bluestem
Silver Mound Artemisia
Blue Fescue
Hosta
Stella d’Oro Daylily
Palace Purple Coral Bells
Autumn Joy Sedum
Yucca

Trees/Shrubs:
Norway Maple
Amur Maple
Honeylocust
Colorado Spruce
Mugo Pine
Scotch Pine
Lilac
Potentilla
Alpine Currant
Bur Oak
Red Oak

Here are some good links for more information on deicing and winter maintenance:

http://www.ehow.com/how_6666764_prevent-icing-over-brick-patio.html

http://www.grounds-mag.com/mag/grounds_maintenance_deicersand_degrees_theyll/

http://www.mainscape.com/templateSnow.cfm?id=26&article_ID=25

http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/naturalresources/DD1413.html

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Cool Splendor

November 7th, 2010

Just because we’re heading into late fall and winter, it doesn’t mean you need to rip out your garden and store all of your outdoor planters in the garage. Outdoor container gardening is a lot of fun and a great opportunity to be imaginative with your creations!

Create a Welcoming Doorstep

Your front door is the first thing visitors see when they arrive at your home, so why not make a statement with festive containers and planters? Even in the late fall and winter there are many creative ways to make urns, window boxes and containers beautiful with natural plants.

 

Evergreen tree-toppers are becoming increasingly popular and can be purchased at most area garden centers. Gertens.com provides some easy steps on planting tree tops:

  • Pull out all your summer or fall annuals.
  • Add extra soil to top off your planters, making sure to leave soil about two inches below the top of the planter.
  • Choose greenery – it’s good to buy a variety of sizes and greenery.
  • Arrange the tips so taller tips are in the middle and smaller ones are around the edge. You might need to prune them as needed for shape. According to Gertens, you’ll need seven to nine spruce tips for a 12-inch pot.

To make tree-top containers even more beautiful and interesting, embellish them with plants from your garden. Birch and dogwood branches, berries, hydrangeas, pine cones, boxwood bunches, magnolia leaves are just a few plants that add texture and can make your containers beautiful and unique — even under a soft layer of snow. And with a few touch ups, you can enjoy them until spring.

Take a walk through your garden or park and we’re sure you’ll find inspiration from nature!

Be creative with your winter window boxes and containers — with just a few touch-ups, they can create interest until Spring!

 

The Winter Burn

Every spring we see beautiful bushes turn brown. Why does this happen? It’s called winter burn and is caused when winter sun and wind trigger transpiration (water is lost).  According to the University of Minnesota Extension, damage usually occurs on the south, southwest or windward side of plants.

Winter burn (Kathy Zuzek, UMN Extension)

 

While all evergreens can be hit with winter burn, yew, arborvitae and hemlocks are particularly susceptible. The UMN Extension has some tips to minimize winter burn:

  • Water evergreens until the ground freezes in late fall or early winter.
  • Create a barrier around plants that are susceptible to burning, including wrapping them in burlap.
  • Apply several inches of mulch around your trees and shrubs for insulation. Snow is a good insulator.
  • Pruning weak branch attachments makes trees less susceptible to snow and ice damage.

 

Wrapping vulnerable trees — like arborvitae — can hep prevent winter burn. (Kathy Zuzek, UMN Extension)

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The Great Divide

October 7th, 2010

Fall is a great time to think about your perennials.  For several plant varieties, it’s the perfect opportunity to divide them, while other plants can weather the winter season and add to a beautiful landscape!

Don’t Cut Too Early

According to perrenials.com, it’s best to wait until mid or late fall to cut back the tops of plants.  If you cut too early, it can result in a sudden flush of soft growth at a time of year that is risky.  You want to allow perennials to become dormant according to their own natural schedule.

Create Seasonal Interest

Cutting beautiful clumps of ornamental grasses in the fall can also ruin an opportunity to enjoy the contrast of their wheat-colored stems against clean, fresh snow.  But winter interest is entirely subjective, and only you can decide what is attractive or looks tired and messy.  Here are a few tips and ideas:

  • Ornamental grasses can remain gorgeous throughout the winter.  Think before cutting them back to the ground before late winter or early spring – some gardeners enjoy wheat-colored grass clumps that contrast with spring-flowering bulbs!
  • Did you know that the seed-heads of certain perennials provide food for finches and other birds?  They also look great against a blanket of snow!  Many late-flowering daisy-type perennials are on this list (like Rudbeckia and Purple Coneflower), but others with nice seed-heads and sturdy stems include Achillea, Agastache, Aster, Astilbe, Baptisia, Buddleia, Chelone, Cimicifuga, Eryngium, Eupatorium, taller Sedum, and a few others.
  • If you’ve heard that dead-topping perennials can help to trap snow, you might be correct.  For some varieties, snow can be the best insulation against cold temperatures.
  • Unlike ornamental grasses, many perennials don’t survive – or sustain – harsh winter months.  We recommend cutting these perennials down in late fall: Alchemilla, Anemone, Campanula, Centaurea, Coreopsis, Delphinium, Dicentra, Euphorbia, Geranium, Hemerocallis, Hosta, Lychnis, Monarda, Nepeta, Oenothera, Phlox (tall types), Trollius, and Veronica.

How Do I Divide Plants?

Grab your shovels and spades!  If possible, water a day or two before dividing to help loosen the plants and bulbs. From there, the process varies depending on what plant you’re working with and whether it’s a root plant or bulb variety.  Check out Gertens.com for specifics on how to divide your perennials.

What Should I Leave Alone?

 

There are a number of perennials that should be left until spring – they’ll do better when they have a longer regrowth period. Check out the U of M Extension Department for a detailed list.

According to perennials.com, the best time to trim an evergreen is immediately after blooming – if at all! Leave these alone in the fall: Ajuga, Alyssum, Arabis, Armeria, Artemisia ‘Powis Castle’ and ‘Huntingdon’, Aubrieta, Aurinia, Bergenia, Cerastium, Corydalis, Dianthus, Epimedium (trim in late winter, before new buds appear), evergreen Euphorbia, Helianthemum, Helleborus, Heuchera, Iberis, Kniphofia, Lamium, Lavender, Liriope, Origanum, Phlox (creeping types), Primula, Pulmonaria, Sagina, Saxifraga, Sedum (many creeping types), Sempervivum, Teucrium, Thymus, Viola.

Certain woody-stemmed perennials should also be left untouched in the fall and pruned back in the spring, leaving about 6 inches of woody stem for the new buds to appear.  These include: Buddleia, Caryopteris, Erysimum ‘Bowles’ Mauve’, Fuchsia, Hypericum, Lavatera, Perovskia (Russian Sage), Phygelius, Santolina.

Be Careful with Plants with Insect Problems

And, finally, certain perennials with disease or insect problems should not only be cut back in the fall, but be sure to remove and destroy the leaf litter below them, where insects and pathogens may hide. Among these: Alcea (Hollyhocks), Aquilegia (Columbine), Crocosmia, Delphinium, Helenium, Heliopsis, Hemerocallis (Daylily), Iris (Bearded types, leave green leaves alone but remove all dead ones), true Lilies, Monarda, Peonies, Summer Phlox, Tricyrtis, and Veronica (tall types).

Of course, you can always break the rules and see what happens. Just remember that if you move or divide a big, bushy perennial, always cut back the foliage by at least half to prevent serious wilting.  This helps to keep the leaf mass in proportion to the reduced number of roots!

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New Magnolia blog and website!

March 2nd, 2010

Well, spring will be here before you know it!!!

We thought we would start this year out with a new customer friendly website.

Check it out….let us know what you think!

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